Agua Verde – 10/6/2019

Agua Verde is a small village located on the Baja Peninsula, close to Loreto.  The village’s name, Agua Verde is derived from the greenish waters that fill the bay.  The village population is close to 200 people and its main industry is fishing.  The village has two restaurants for both locals and tourists with a fish based menu.  The area also has goat farming and it is possible to buy both goat cheese and a goat if you want.  The village offers hiking, snorkeling and diving opportunities and nearby you can also visit cave paintings or bathe in the hot springs.

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One of the local restaurants in town offering fish tacos

We left our anchorage at Puerto los Gatos at 8 am for a 2-hour sail to Agua Verde, also on the Baja Peninsula.  As we approached a next anchorage we past a small rocky island or the San Marcial Reef and all we could hear was seals bellowing.  After anchoring we decided to go and explore seal island before the wind picked up and it got too rough.

Andrew, Jamie, Ava and I geared up in our wet suits and packed up the dinghy with all our snorkel gear in the hope that we might be able to swim with them.  On arriving it soon became apparent that we would not be swimming with them.  It is mating season, and, on the island, there were two very large males.  The males were surrounded with 6 or 7 female seals.  The males made it very clear from the beginning who was boss with their bellowing.  Within minutes of arriving all but the largest male and one sick looking seal were in the water, swimming around us with the male continually barking.

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We enjoyed the show.  Eventually the largest male gave in and joined the others in the water.  You don’t really appreciate how big the males are until you get that close to them and you can understand why on Espiritu Santo you are not allowed to swim with them until breeding season is over in August.

Eventually the largest seal had, had enough and managed to lumber his large body ashore.  There was a small seal who had remained on the rocks the entire time we were there and apart from lifting her flipper and head a couple of times she didn’t move or go in the water.  We can only imagine she is sick.  Poor thing.  It was a fantastic 45-minute visit to the island.

After our seal island trip, we stopped at the pinnacle, aptly known as the Roca Solitaria for a snorkel and the water is getting colder the further north we go.  You definitely need a wetsuit.  Despite the cold and the crying of the gulls, we had a good snorkel.  The rock floor is scattered with starfish of various colours, shapes and sizes all gripping onto the rocks.  We even saw a few crown of thorns among them.

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The pinnacle where we went for a snorkel

Some of the many starfish and crown of thorns we spotted.

I did spot a couple of Christmas trees which I haven’t seen in a while and just as we were getting in the dinghy Ava spotted what think was a snake or I guess it could have been an eel.

We ended our day by going ashore at about 5 pm to the village, just as the goats were meandering up the steep slope. 

The village consists of a few houses, two restaurants and a few small tiendas, shops.  Among the houses were more grazing goats, kids running around, dogs playing and a turkey all ruffled up. 

We wandered the small village waving to the kids and admiring the local artwork on the buildings.  Behan actually pointed out that the paintings had paintings within them of their local landscape and people.

Eventually we found a lady who had goat cheese, made into a heart shape.  With our cheese in hand we went back to the dinghy. 

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Reaching our dinghy we found the beach population had exploded with kids swimming and jumping off a local fishing boat, others running along the beach, pelicans fishing and fighting for space on any available boat, dogs barking and parents chasing kids, it was all happening.

We decided to retreat to the quiet on our boat for sun-downers with crackers and fresh goat cheese.

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