Isla Granito Sea Lions – Refugio


We anchored near the southern end of Isla Granito while Love and Luck dinghied over, so we could snorkel with the Refugio sea lions.  I’ve got to say the water wasn’t particularly clear and lots of stuff, maybe sea lion excrement was floating through it.  The smell was nauseating, turns out the cause was a couple of dead sea lions decaying on the island.  We did snorkel with the mainly male populations, but there was an edginess to the feel of the snorkel that we haven’t felt elsewhere, perhaps the abundance of males.  The water was so murky that you didn’t see the sea lions until they were really close.

Max didn’t want to get in and went back to the boat while we continued around the island.  Every 10 meters of so around the island we saw small family groups of sea lions with a male or two and several females. We didn’t swim with them but did watch their antics.

When we got to a small bay on the northern end of the island, we discovered many females and juveniles with 4 or so males.  These guys were curious and swam out to see what we were doing.  We decided to snorkel with them.  After a while they came closer to us for a look.

Aren’t these two cute? They soon joined us when we went snorkelling.

They look so zen don’t they?

What was funny was every time you turned to swim back to the dinghy, they would follow you and you would turn around and they would freeze before scattering, it was like the game, ’What’s the Time Mr Wolf?’  They were a little like meercats or prairie dogs and they would pop their heads above the water to see what you were doing.

Ava snorkelled with the sea lions and they followed her back to the dinghy.

We had read that sea lions are more interactive if you tumble, dive and mess around in the water. Ava tested this theory, unsure if it worked but they definitely watched with interest.

We continued around to the western side of the island where we found the youngsters who provided great entertainment.  The big male bull would swim around barking and the youngsters would scatter until he turned his back and then come back to the rock in front of us to watch us.  They are like puppies or young kids, two of them had a piece of rope that they kept playing tug a war with or wrapping around themselves, while the mothers napped, perhaps enjoying the peace from these mischievous pups.

These guys had a piece of rope that they were playing tug a war with and then wrapped it around themselves, they reminded me of kids playing with the paper from their Christmas presents.

We followed the noise of what sounded like a combination of a lamb bleating and a kitten meowing to find a baby sea lion calling to its mother for food.  She reclined back and let him feed while ignoring the cacophony of noise from the colony.

This baby made quite a fuss until mum gave in and fed him/her


After our experience yesterday I was keen to go back and swim with the sea lions in the northern anchorage, this time with some battery on the underwater camera.  Andrew, Ava and I set off to meet Love and Luck in the northern anchorage.  The water was clear, and the sea lions entered the water and swam out near the dinghies while we donned our snorkel.

The northern beach on Isla Granito, where the ratio of males to females was much lower.

Love and Luck went to the colony on the south end of the bay to start with and we went to the north end.  A male occasionally came up and barked at the girls/juveniles if they came too close to us or maybe just to express his dominance.  We got quite close and there was one particularly beautiful grey sea lion who would either stand on her tail or lie on the sand and let us get quite close to her, probably within 30 cm.  She was very photogenic with her long eyelashes accentuating her big eyes and thick black whiskers.

Isn’t she beautiful?

Another day, another video of sea lions.

 Like yesterday as soon as you turned your back or started swimming off, they would all follow you and you would turn around to 20 or 30 sea lions staring at you.

My second favourite sea lion the brown one who was also quite calm and inquisitive.

We went back to the baby anchorage again.  The two particularly charismatic pups that had been playing with the rope yesterday were there in true rebellious form again, playing with the remains of the same piece of rope and briefly scattering when the male appeared.  I had bought a ball with me convinced that they would be interested.  They poked their noses at it a few times, but they seemed more interested in watching us or showing off with the rope.

These guys are definitely mischievous and seem to have no problem finding trouble while looking innocent, somewhat like children.

Andrew was rather insistent that we collect the ball and not leave rubbish, particularly as the kids had done a beach clean up the day before with Love and Luck.  Unfortunately, the big male was not impressed with Andrew’s decision to get closer to get the ball and charged, I jumped across the dinghy onto Andrew’s feet to avoid any chance of him taking a bite out of my ass, which provided much entertainment for everyone.

 As we left to return to our boat there was one very sizeable male sitting alone on a rock.  He was also sporting a very large gouge in his side, maybe he had once been the dominant male and was now on his own.  It was a bit sad to see the lone male, but he did sit up and bark as we passed by.

I’m glad we didn’t swim with this guy, he is enormous!

There are definitely not only grouper abound, but big ones too around Refugio, so much so that Tristan and Andrew had a limit of one each per day. So they had to choose carefully. Tristan has admired the golden grouper and caught a few smaller ones in the past, but his prize catch is the one in the photo below.

Refugio is situated on the northern tip of Isla Angel de la Guarda. Sunsets and sunrises (not that I saw any) transform the colourless mountainous landscape to one with a wide spectrum of colours with varying shades of reds, browns, pinks and even mauve.

The kids kept busy snorkelling, camping on shore, beach cleanups and had another quaran-themed dinner, the theme was ‘cats’ onboard Love and Luck.

It was too hot to venture too far into the interior of the island but we did explore some of the wind and wave worn rock formations.

Playa Coyote – July

Our second last day in the Bay of Conception we went to Playa Coyote to shop at the tienda.  While the tienda is very small and has limited supplies, they can get you things if you request it and we were able to order a few things and collected them the following morning after our walk.

Andrew and I went for an early morning walk before the temperatures reached 40 degrees along a private road in the northern part of coyote bay. After passing a couple of homes a small path branched off which we followed as it snaked up the hill offering fantastic views over Playa el Burro.  The path continues to the point and loops around so you can then see a full view of Playa Coyote.

A map for the walk is shown on the map below:

Wahoo Whale Sharks

First Encounter with Mexican Whale Sharks! – 4/9/2020

Whale sharks are both the largest fish and shark in the world. Whale sharks are filter feeders and they have no teeth, meaning they can’t eat you. That being said, their size is intimidating; they are ordinarily between 5.5 and 10 meters in length, though the largest recorded specimen was over 18 metres. One thing at odds with its size are its eyes, which are remarkably small. Whale sharks are known to spend from June to September in the Bay of LA area and can sometimes be seen as late as December. The whale sharks then migrate south to the La Paz area, where they stay until spring. Why do they spend so much time in this area? Apparently the water is nutrient-rich, due to upwellings caused by the coastline shape, currents and wind patterns in the area. Even if you don’t have your own boat you can visit the area and snorkel with one of the reputable tour boats that operate in the area.

Our first stop in the Bay of LA was at the northern anchorage, La Gringa, a popular spot for camping, fishing and spotting whale sharks. We headed there primarily because we had heard there had been whale sharks hanging around that area of the bay in the past few days.

La Gringa Anchorage

After anchoring in La Gringa, Andrew went off to talk to some of the other kid boats in the anchorage to find out where they had seen the whale sharks.  It turns out they had been swimming among the boats the previous few days. When Andrew returned, he spotted one in the distance, so he and I gathered our gear and went in search of them.  When we got close to one, I put on my gear, jumped in and holy crap, they are huge; you can’t help feeling intimidated even though you know they aren’t going to eat you, because they are ENORMOUS!!!!

One of the whale sharks feeding, you can see the white dots of plankton flowing into its mouth.

We repeated this a few times where we would spot one, drive near it and jump in as it passed by.  We decided to go back and get the kids and tell Love and Luck.  It took us a while to spot one and when we did our three teens put on their masks and jumped in; Tristan eagerly swam very close to it.  The first one they swam with was juvenile and curious.  He came back a couple of times for a look. 

Tristan, Max and Ava snorkelling with whale sharks

We continued to spot different whale sharks and the kids would jump in and swim with them.  I think what we learned today was that it is better if you find one to stay put and let them come back to you rather than jumping back in the dinghy and driving over to them.

Whale Sharks – 5/9/2020

A whale shark with remora attached to its head.

You may be wondering what all the little fish are that are attached to the whale sharks; these are called remora or suckerfish. They actually have a sucker pad on the top of their head, which looks a bit like the bottom of a sneaker, but is is actually a dorsal fin that allows them to stick to the whale shark. They are found on sharks, whales, manta rays, dolphins and turtles. Remoras eat dead skin, scales, faecal matter and parasites from their host. In fact, scientists are studying the remora’s sucker pad to develop new adhesive-free attachment methods.

After an uneventful morning, Andrew suggested I have a look from the boat for any whale sharks to which I scoffed I’m not going to be able to see them from the boat.  I glanced around and happened to look between the back of the boat and the shore and there was a whale shark.  I eagerly raced downstairs to change into swimmers, and Tristan and I grabbed our snorkels and fins. 

It was a juvenile whale shark and as it passed us it would turn its head to look at us.  It did a lap and came back around for another look.  Meanwhile, the mum snuck upon us and it wasn’t until she was nearly upon us with her big mouth looming that we noticed, there may have been a bit of squealing through the snorkel, by me.

The photo of Tristan snorkelling with a juvenile whale shark kind of gives you an idea of their size.

Ava joined us and kept asking “where is the shark?”, but it was right behind her and soon gave her a start.  Both Tristan and Ava swam along with the pair for some time watching them feed.

Julie had heard about the lazy river at the end of the La Gringa point where, at the change of tides, the water flows through a narrow lagoon and out along the beach.  The water level and flow are at their peak when it’s a full moon, which had been a couple of days earlier.  We packed up the dingy with shoes, noodles and towed Max and Ava’s surfboards (Max attached to his) behind us.  Max had a smile on his face and seemed to enjoy being towed behind.

We headed over to where the other dinghies were gearing up with their various floatation devices for the late afternoon event.  After anchoring and grabbing our noodles and Max and Ava with their surfboards we waded through the knee-deep water to where the current flowed and lazed in the water as it slowly carried us along.  A fellow cruiser gave a shout after being pinched by a crab and there was the occasional bump from a large rock when the water was just too shallow to pass over it easily.   A great time to catch up with friends, while watching different birds as we passed by.

We packed up an hour or so later after two rides on the river and towed both Max and Ava grinning behind on their surfboards.

lots More Whale Sharks!!! – 6/9/2020

After a huge cooked brunch for Father’s Day and a short nap, Andrew and I decided it was time to look for some whale sharks and there was one nearby.  The kids from both boats had swam over to it, Mark kayaked over and Andrew and I joined with our dinghy.  We were soon joined by another baby and its mum and all oohed and aahed over these gentle giants.

Look at those lips!

Throughout the chaos of 5 teens and 4 adults, one brown booby swam between the chatting teens without a care in the world.  It seemed completely unbothered about the splashing whale sharks or giggling kids, and it was only when Ava reached out to pat it that it finally decided to fly off.

Crazy booby

Eventually the whale sharks moved off and the kids swam back to the boats while the adults followed the sharks to their new feeding grounds.  We were so glad we followed as they were so interactive and stayed between the dinghy and kayak for at least 30 minutes, swimming between us while tilting their heads to look at you.  I photographed from the dinghy for a while before joining the others in the water.

In my efforts to get a photo of one eating, it turned to look at me and I ended up floating on top of its head with lots of squealing and “oh shit!” repeated several times; I was trying to keep very, very still, not to disturb it. It was over within seconds and I was deposited on its other side at eye level with another very large whale shark.  I think we were both shocked to be at eye level with each other and I found myself swept up on top of its head, too, all the while videoing my hands and fins as I tumbled around. I could hear the others laughing their heads off and was told later that it was very funny. 

These playful creatures would swim right up to our motionless dinghy and then circle it, watching you.  Sometimes they would swim under you, lifting the dinghy slightly as they went.

It was amazing!!!!!!!

We finished off the day by the five of us and all of Love and Luck by going on the Lazy River swim.  There was quite a large group of other cruising kid boats setting up dinner and a swim.  Tristan had decided to not come yesterday and seemed to enjoy all the shrimp that were swimming in the lagoon while Sally and Ava found a whole pile of snails and Julie and I managed to get a few scrapes from the rocks and oysters as we passed over them.  It was good to catch up with a few boats we haven’t seen for a while and cool off from the heat at La Gringa.

The Bay of LA has fewer than 3000 residents, but it does have a really well stocked supermarket called La Isla with fresh fruit and vegetables stored in fridges, drinks and alcohol and pretty much anything else you might need, including some things we couldn’t find in Santa Rosalia. The supermarket get its fresh produce on a Friday and it starts to make its way onto the shelves on Saturday, although each day more is added from the cold storage out back and we found that even on a Wednesday we were able to get fresh lettuce. You will pay a bit more than you would at a larger town like Penasco or Santa Rosalia, but you are in a desert. The store also sells internet for 20 pesos for one hour and you can sit outside and use it.

Underwater in the Desert

Tristan here! It’s been just about 5 months for me here in Mexico since I came to visit (and then was locked down with all the covid madness), and in this downtime there have been many opportunities for amazing snorkelling, even just over seaweed, sand and rocks. Combining this luxury (there’s not been much snorkelling for me back in Australia in the last year and a half) with a newfound interest in photography has yielded some pretty neat results. Mum, Max and I have been doing a National Geographic photography course on Love and Luck with my good bud Heidi, and ever since Mum told me I could use her underwater camera while I was on the boat I’ve been taking photos of fish, rays, crabs and shrimp almost every day. Figured I’d share a few up here to see.


Two varieties of Mexican Barnacle Blennies


The Barnacle Blennies are definitely a favourite of mine, because they are so small (their heads are about half the length of my pinky nail) and yet so aggressive, peering right out at the camera from the mollusc tubes they’ve claimed.

Another classic in the Sea of Cortez would be the mobula rays, as well as the regular stingrays as well, who always find some new way to show off for the camera.


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These two mobula rays were more than happy to put on a show, though the regular stingrays have their own kind of charm.


Hermit crabs and shrimp are pretty easy to find in the shallows, and if you’re patient enough (and can hold your breath) they will come right up to the camera and have a look around; a couple that were a little more shy would be the Panamic Arrow crab, which waved its disproportionately long claws every time I got near, and the nudibranch which hid, almost invisible, in the weed upon the rocks.


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Hermit and arrow crabs, Mexican Dancer Nudibranchs and small shrimp make up just a few of Baja’s many colourful and exciting crustaceans and molluscs.

25-05-2020 - Mexican Dancer Nudibranch 2 20-06-2020 - Panamic Arrow Crab 3


Other than that, most of my photography has been largely experimental, finetuning focus settings and exposure for some really microscopic shots. A couple fish underneath that I have yet to identify, but they still held still for a photo anyway. Kudos to them for making it to the blog post.


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Tiny fish; their identities still elude me.


We are headed back out of internet range soon and hopefully near to another reef; the fish won’t photograph themselves!


Playa Santa Barbara – 25th and 26th July 2020

We anchored in Playa Santa Barbara, and very quickly ended up in the water for a swim, unfortunately, with a water temperature of 33°C, (91°F) it was neither cool nor refreshing.  The Bay of Concepcion is hot even at 7 pm when the temperature hovered at 36.5°C (97.7°F) inside the boat, air-conditioning would be really nice.

Julie, Mark and I headed out for a hike at 6.30 pm, following the dirt road through mangroves and winding uphill to a point overlooking the bay.  There was one empty house on the point and a numbered lots, indicating potential future development.  The view over the point was very pretty and would most definitely be a better photo op in the early morning rather than the afternoon, but it still had a nice outlook over the bay.

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View over the bay where Arena and Utopia were anchored

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Tecomate Island and the bay in the background

The morning began with an early morning walk with Andrew to the other point facing both the mangroves and the bay.  We encountered lots of mosquitoes.

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View of the north end of the anchorage and the mangroves

After Andrew and Tristan returned from an afternoon of spearfishing, Andrew took Ava and me for a snorkel over the remains of the sailboat wreck.  The water wasn’t particularly clear, but at least it was shallow enough that you could get down to have a closer look, it wasn’t particularly interesting.

We went over to Tecomate Island at the entrance to the bay and snorkeled around the island.  The highlight was definitely the reef rays that Ava spotted, we dove down and watched the pair of them chase each other, flap sand over themselves and swim around.

Isla Requeson – 23rd and 24th July 2020

Julie and her girls organized an evening walk on Isla Requeson to find a geocache.  Isla Requeson is connected to the mainland via a sandspit during low tide, when we went ashore it was high tide and so it was cut off from the mainland.  Across the mainland were tents and 4wds setting up for the night.  It took a few minutes to get our group of 16 organized to go and a bit of time to catch up.

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Mark led the way and hit a snag when the mangrove path was ankle-deep in water, we all waited to see how Mark would fair before committing to going.  Eventually, Mark returned saying we were good to go but would have wet feet.  Steph and Jamie carried their youngest two through the water and Ava brought up the rear while endlessly chatting to the other girls, you would think she would have run out of things to talk about by now.

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It should be noted I did not make everyone line up they were all just on the path waiting to enter the mangrove.

Walking through the mangroves

After exiting the mangrove, Lucy led the way with her phone with a downloaded map in search of the geocache.  After a few false turns, they eventually found the dead cactus and spent 30 minutes turning over rocks to find the treasure, with no luck.  We all decided to head downhill for a look, and Mark immediately spots a bit of red, upturns the rock, and finds the prize.  Bronwyn was quite excited to have a look.

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View of the mainland from Isla Requeson  

The treasure hunt: Photo on left Steph and Lachlan and photo on the right the two amigos leading the way.

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Bronwyn and Sally with the loot.

Arena and Utopia decided to head back, and Andrew swam out to reach the dinghies so we could get back without going back through the mangrove.

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Tristan, Max and I headed back to the island to have a bit more of an explore, trudging through the vibrant green mangroves to reach the trail.  The green mangroves are certainly a bright spot amongst all the desert background.  Tristan and Max went looking for different insects surrounding the mangroves, while I went to see more of the island.  

The island has a path around and through it and the trail is relatively visible and marked with the occasional cairn.  Apart from a couple of birds, there wasn’t a lot of wildlife, but maybe it was just too hot still.  I did love the little cacti that are dotted between the rocks and shells throughout the island.

_1200135 (427x640)Doesn’t the size of the cairn seem a little excessive for the small trail?

Aren’t these cacti cute?

The island has a few small peninsulae, one of which had a rock with a hole carved out of it.  It was a relatively short walk as we had to get back for an early dinner and after dinner drinks and cake to celebrate Mark’s (Love and Luck) birthday. 

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Max and Tristan off exploring a trail on their own.

Petroglyph Hike, Playa el Burro -22/7/2019

We ended up anchoring in Playa Coyote and dinghying around to Playa el Burro.  We had a puppy and a kitten greet us on our arrival onshore and were eager to play and ended up following us on our hike. The girls named the dog ‘Hudson’ and the kitten was called ‘Kitty’. The trail can be seen clearly in the anchorage as you can see from the photo above, but not so clear when you reach the shore.  The cruiser’s guide describes the hike starting point as being behind Bertha’s restaurant and across the highway.   We followed the instructions and then spent the next 30 minutes trying to find an entrance, not as easy as one would expect, it seems.  We ended up finding a break in trees and clambered up the rocks until we could find white painted rocks indicating a trail, of sorts. 

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The shoreline of Playa el Burro

‘Hudson’ and ‘Kitty’, named by the kids, followed us up and back on the trail.

The cruiser’s guide says that the petroglyphs can be found at the start of the trail, as we did not see any we can only guess we were not at the correct starting point.  Stephanie, Bronwyn, and Lachlan came to see the petroglyphs but after some time of not finding them, they decided to return to the boat.

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Start of the hike

The first section of the trail is marked with cairns and white painted rocks and just involves scaling the rocks between the two.  It is a steep and very hot climb, even at 7.45 in the morning.  To our surprise, the dog stayed with those in the lead and the kitten chose to stay with Ava and Ada in the rear.  Andrew and Tristan had had enough part the way up and decided to go back down to the dinghy and swim instead. 

Eventually, as it gets steeper the path becomes less rocky and more clearly defined, as it zigzags the remainder of the hill.  There were a couple of water breaks in the shade until we reached the top, or so we thought.

Rest stop on the left and the view from the top, or so we thought.

We stopped for a photo at the top of the hill, only to discover that Jamie off Arena had continued up further, so we all continued to the peak.  We stopped for another photo at the top, but Julie wandered off and found that the path continued up another smaller peak, so most of us continued. 

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View from the top, oh wait it goes even higher

We finally considered that we had reached the top as the path became less clear and took a few photos before the long downhill walk.

Photo 1: Julie continues on up, so we all eventually continue up. Photo 2: Sally and Riley PHoto 3: the rest of the group at the top.

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View from the top, finally, overlooking Playa el Burro and Playa Coyote

Jamie and Max’s long legs easily ate up the distance getting them back downhill the quickest, the kids passed me, and eventually, Julie, Mark and I reached the bottom.  Mark had a geocache on his phone so we did a slight deviation off the path to see what we could find.  I’m not sure if the petroglyphs we found was what we were looking for, but I’m pretty sure they were not the authentic ones that were supposed to be at the base of the trail, but someone had drawn a pretty good goat.

The hike back down

The Pteroglphys we found was a little different from the one in the cruiser’s guide, not sure we found the right ones.

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Mmmmm, I’m pretty sure that this one is a modern interpretation of a petroglyph.

A long swim off the back of the boat ensued when we finally reached our boats to cool off.  It is so hot this time of year.

We left our boats at 7 am, but really to do the walk in the summer you probably need to go even earlier, and ideally, the hike would be better in the spring of fall.  The hike is probably not really suited to younger kids, but a kitten and a dog followed us up and made it fine, so maybe it would be okay.

Goodbye San Domingo Bay – 21/7/2020

Our morning walk took us inland at San Domingo Bay.  There were lots of jackrabbits, some sort of ground chipmunk and lots of birds.  But the coolest part of the walk for me was when we spotted a jackrabbit sitting under a tree, he bounded past us and dug a little hole and then laid his belly in it.  I had the camera snapping him and he tolerated me before growing bored and hopping to the nearest tree for some food.  I was amazed at how close we got.  I did discover that I have photographed a lot of vermin over the years it seems, we photographed lots of squirrels in the parks in London, chipmunks in the Grand Canyon and now jackrabbits in the Baja.


Upon returning from our hike, we were even more inundated with bees and so we decided it was time to find a new anchorage.  During our motor to Playa el Burro, we encountered dolphins, large dolphins.  In fact, I think these dolphins are the largest we have ever seen, they happily rode our bow waves turning their heads to watch us.  There were a couple of younger ones in their pod that stayed close to their mums’.  Some of the dolphins had scratches, all over them, Andrew theorized it was the males fighting.  They stayed with us for about 10 minutes before drifting off.

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After going into the El Burro anchorage Andrew decided he wasn’t so fond of it, so we went around the corner to Playa Coyote.  After 4 months of not seeing people, it was a bit of a shock to see tents on the beach, people kayaking, pangas taking people to the nearby islands and even a jet skit, clearly the lockdown elsewhere doesn’t apply to Concepcion Bay.  We had a nice afternoon swimming and snorkeling at one of the nearby islands.

Santo Domingo – July

Our first stop in the Bay of Concepcion is Santo Domingo.  Santo Domingo has a white sand beach, littered with shells, and a beautiful mountain backdrop.  We were very excited to discover warm water and eagerly enjoyed a long swim, unfortunately, our excitement over our new anchorage was overshadowed by the hundreds of bees that had come aboard during that time.

Tristan and I went to ashore at about 7.15 pm when it had cooled down slightly to explore, but very quickly split up, he went to explore the smaller creatures of the desert and I went looking for the bigger photo opportunities.  

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More desert scenery photos, I like the reddish tones found in this area.

Tristan and I eventually met up again each happy with our discoveries.  While I enjoyed the desert landscape, Tristan discovered the skeleton of a deer, minus its skull and a detached leg with flesh and fur still on it.

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Photos courtesy of Tristan Deeley

It was a hot night and the temperature hovered at 34 degrees celsius or 93 Fahrenheit at 11 pm.  We awoke to more bees, and I was stung for the second time in 24 hours,  So despite the beautiful anchorage and the fact that we have internet, I think we will be moving on pretty quickly.


After a very hot night, Stephanie picked Julie and me up at 7.30 for our morning walk.  I try to find something interesting on our walks and today Stephanie found it, quite literally.  We were walking around the rocks on the beach and next thing we know Steph is screaming. Julie thought it was a bird that flew at her, I thought she was slipping on the rocks but it turns out it was a bat.  It’s quite amazing how a nurse’s brain works because Stephanie’s first thought (in the 2 seconds) was rabies, Julie thought cool and went looking for more and I just thought gross.  We also found an intact skeleton of a turtle.

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The kids spent the afternoon swimming, playing on the beach, and using Sally’s shark teeth to create necklaces.


Today’s morning hike with Stephanie and Julie started along the beach, where there were tracks along the shore and not the normal hermit crab or seagull ones.  We think it may have been deer.  Our walk took us inland where we saw lots of different birds, jackrabbit, and……. a deer.  I didn’t get a photo as it disappeared too quickly, but it was the first one alive that we have seen on the Baja.  There was also a cool rock formation.

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Cool rock formation in the middle of nowhere and view of the boats in the anchorage.

San Nicholas Bay – July 2020

Finally, after months of basing ourselves in San Juanico, we have headed north stopping just past Punta Pulpito in the Bay of San Nicholas.  We enjoyed a couple of days exploring the beach, dunes, and dirt roads in the area.  The area is very isolated with one house a few miles from the beach, reachable by dirt road, so we did not encounter any people while we were there.

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Andrew and I went for a walk along a dirt road and decided to take a short cut back to the dinghy.  While the path started off straightforward it abruptly ended at a dry river bed, which we followed before scrambling through the brush to discover a large scattering of bleached cow bones.  We eventually ended up back at the beach with a few scratches and stones in our shoes. _1190834 (640x427)

The kids excitedly discovered a couple of mako shark heads (fairly recently deposited there) on the rocks at one end of the beach.  Tristan and Sally decided to become dentists while we were in the bay and went back to the shark heads a couple of days later.  Were they smelly you may ask?  Yes, they were stinky.  Sally extracted some of the teeth from one of the sharks for future jewelry projects and Tristan spent hours extracting the jaw and teeth of the other one.  So far he has removed the flesh, put it in muriatic acid and it is now sitting in bleach.  He may have left it in the acid a bit long as a couple of the teeth have gone soft, but I guess only time will tell as to how the project turns out.


Photos 1 and 2 of the two different mako heads, Photo 3: Tristan pushing the head down to the water to flush out all the bugs, Photos 4 and 5: Tristan extracting the jaw.

Julie, Stephanie, and I walked the dirt road one morning and ended near the gates to the lone house with its own small runway and possibly a helipad?

The Bay of San Nicholas has been a pleasant change from San Juanico, as it has no bees, and a cool breeze, although we did get 33-knot winds at about midnight for a couple of hours the first night and had to hastily retrieve clothes off the lifelines.  But a new place is definitely a break in the monotony this year.